Tag Archive: Paro


Bhutan Diaries – Day 5: The Tiger’s Nest

Day 05:

As instructed by Kinley, we were ready to leave the hotel for Taktsang – The Tiger’s Nest – by 8am. Breakfast again was typical; only bread, butter, jam, omlette, porridge for Indians. From the point we began trekking, we could see the Tiger’s nest right in front. But to get up there, we had to take a long & winding road up the mountains. You can rent a horse for Rs.500 for a return trip, and also buy a stick for support. At some points the path really gets narrow and with the horse’s tendency to walk at the edges, you’d be convinced to not take a horse ride. We were instructed to move towards the inner-side as soon as we saw a horse.No one is allowed to a take a ride on the way down; the horses come down empty, charging like bulls – almost without any control.

At half-way, there is a government built cafeteria that offers a clean view of the monastery. You will be served tea/coffee with amazing cream-cracker-like biscuits, and on the way back can also choose to have lunch here (not recommended for Indians). The journey from this point gets a little difficult: first you have to walk up a steep path, then walk down 500 steps and finally climb another 200 to get to the temple. With some motivation from Chibu & Kinley, I agreed to go. Some of the photos taken on the way are perhaps the best ones from the trek. Most of the steps have no railings, so you really need to be careful. Before you descend the 500 steps, you are at a point that is right opposite the monastery; they could have a bridge. In fact, several people have suggested, volunteered and even contributed to building a rope-way to get up there. But the Bhutanese love Bollywood, and totally believe in ‘kuch pane ke liye kuch khona padta hai’. They believe that nothing comes easy, and that the pleasure of visiting such a holy & refreshing place and getting close to God, should only come after some effort.

As you begin to climb again, you pass-by a very scenic bridge behind which is a waterfall; I even climbed the rocks there. In fact, the way up wasn’t as difficult as the hype created. Chibu went all the way up and I got a distant picture of him. Kinley told us that coming down (starting with climbing 500 steps) was going to be quick and easy. To our surprise, despite of stopping-by at several places to take pictures, we reached only 40mins after our parents. They had waited at the cafeteria for a while, and then started to walk down. Another Japanese couple, the man who closely resembled Mohan kaka, had passed by at the point where the 500 step descend starts, and only gone half-way down since. All in all it was fun. We really didn’t get short of oxygen, neither was it too cold at the top. The key to enjoying this trek is to go ‘slow-and-steady’.

We drove back to town where we had a decent Indian meal. We also confirmed our return tickets at the Druk air office which spans just 2 leased buildings. Kinley stopped by at the range to catch-up a game of archery which is Bhutan’s national sport. On a Wednesday afternoon, there were four teams and a hundred spectators watching it. One of the persons approached me and asked where I was from, in good Hindi. He asked if I had seen any movie stars in Mumbai – every other Bhutanese will ask you this if you say you’re from Mumbai. He was upset with Kareena for not finding a Hindu guy for her, and was abusing Sania for her Pakistani act. As we drove back to hotel, Kinley very sadly informed us that our tour was over!

Day 5 photos

Our Bhutan trip from Kolkata & back was (well-)managed by Mystic Bliss Tours & Travel.

Bhutan Diaries – Day 4: Heading for Paro

Day 04:

We started our day with a brief trek to the temple of the divine mad man. The one thing you will see everywhere close to the temple is phalluses drawn on walls. The ‘divine madman’ was believed to have a huge phallus and made love to the most beautiful girl in every village he went. He’s called mad because he had sex with his own mother, but only to purify her – and divine for his wisdom. He is known to scare-off daemonesses with his phallus. That is the reason we saw wooden phalluses at the handicrafts museum in Thimpu. Besides paintings, tiny wooden replicas are hand-crafted and worn in the necks of new-born children. Stories like these come from the near past in Bhutan – the 16th century – the same time Shivaji maharaj was building a navy to ward-off the English.

At the temple, Kinley picked a name for his new born daughter by pulling a string-tied page from a book of names; all names come either with Kinley (name of temple) or Chimi (meaning no-dog based on a mythical story). Ma prepared herself for tomorrow’s trek to the Tiger’s nest by grabbing a wooden stick from one of the trees. The struggle for chicken continued even at an Indian restaurant called Chula whose menu featured a dozen chicken preparations common to a Bombay restaurant. We had no option but to head to Hotel Pedling for our protein dose. In the mean while, Chibu & my parents got a good deal on Adidas shoes.

On arrival at Paro, we headed straight to the National Museum that bears treasures from the 8th century. There are stone vessels, paintings, currency, dresses, stamps, stuffed birds & animals and much more. Entry closes at 330pm and we made it just in time. But by the time we were done, the photo gallery was closed. We then headed to our hotel Tashi Namgay, one of the best luxury hotels in Paro that overlooks the airport. We were offered a river-side cottage with 2 separate rooms; each with a sitting area, kitchen and beds. What I loved most was that it was Wi-Fi enabled.

Day 4 Photos

Our Bhutan trip from Kolkata & back was (well-)managed by Mystic Bliss Tours & Travel

Bhutan Diaries – Day 1: Thimpu

15:30hrs, Thimpu

Night stay at Kolkata was decent; we ordered chicken noodles in the middle of the night. The city is still as unclean as it was 10 years back, accompanied by very high entropy. The airport is medieval (note: aviation history starts much after Christ) & even Emirates does not get an aero-bridge. Took an early morning Druk Air flight to Paro; the airline operates a fleet of 2 A319s. I was sitting next to Pema Tshering, a unique scholar who teaches History to MA students & Geography to BA students. He was kind enough to offer me his window seat & introduce me to the Himalayas. The approach to Paro requires a 90 degree turn between the Paro valley to show way to a really small runway; surprisingly there are no taxiways either.

At the airport, everyone from ground-staff to policemen were wearing something very close to knee-length bathing robes; little later we realized this was Gho, the national dress. My parents were telling us the story of a man before them who was about to be sent back for some reason. I think, unless you’re travelling on business, you can’t enter Bhutan without a package tour. Out of immigration & customs, we were welcomed by our tour guide Kinley Tensin (right! Same as the mineral water brand in India. In fact, he leveraged the fact to help us get used to his name).

On our way to Thimpu we experienced the confluence of the Paro & Thimpu rivers at a point where 3 stupas or chortens were laid – in the Nepali Badrinath style (has a Shiv-ling-like dome), Tibetan style (marked by the crescent moon) and the Bhutanese variant (2 storied). We were awestruck by a monastery with a orange tree that bears fruit all year long. Kinley kept telling us about the influence of Indian cinema & television on Bhutanese. They’ve had case of divorce & misbehaving saas-bahus thanks to our prime-time shows. They watch cricket, but nothing beats their love for Anu Malik in Indian Idol. On arrival at our hotel, we served great Indian food – bhindi fry, fish fry, mutter paneer, chicken masala with hot naan.

We soon set out for the textile museum & a handicrafts gallery. Scary masks are a common sight – they are used to develop a fear of death and to prepare people for the kind of faces they will see in the court of Yam. After a short nap, we set out for what we love doing most, walkin’-shoppin’. We got some local produce as well as some from Thailand. For dinner, we tried Chinese which was just so-so; it is only our variant of Chinese that is so Indian – perhaps, the only thing influenced by the ‘hindi-chini bhai bhai’ campaign. After a long time we had time for some family talk & we spent over an hour doing that.

Day 1 Photos

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